If you haven’t already, you should check out the last blog post on Central Madagascar, which was the first in this series on how I and my friends spent 8 days in the country.
Most tourists flock to the famous Western coast of the country to view the baobabs, but the north is where you will find the most stunning beaches. Moreover, the north is surprisingly easy to explore—at least in terms of distance (but not in road quality lol). In this post, I’ll share how I spent my time in Northern Madagascar, share some tips and give recs on what I would have done differently.
Our 2-Day Quick Itinerary for the North
Day 1
- Take the earliest flight to Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), arriving around 9 am
- Drive to and explore the Tsingy Rouge
- Continue driving to Ambilobe and Spend the Night there
Day 2
- Visit Ankarana National Park once it opens at 7:30 am
- Drive back to Diego Suarez (Antsiranana)
- Stop by Sugarloaf Mountain viewpoints for panoramic views
- End the day at Ramena Beach to watch the sunset
Antsiranana (Diego Suarez)
Antsiranana, also known as Diego Suarez, is the second-largest city in Madagascar and sits close to the country’s northern tip. We began our trip here after taking a domestic flight from the capital, Antananarivo, to Antsiranana early the morning after we arrived.
The city has more to offer than you might expect, so I recommend staying at least a day. As I mentioned, northern Madagascar’s coastline is known for its beaches, making this region perfect for a longer stay if you love a good beach holiday.
One of my favorite spots was Ramena Beach—a lovely, well-maintained public beach that’s especially magical at sunset. The shore is lined with small local restaurants serving fresh seafood, though you should be prepared for persistent vendors selling crafts. Beyond Ramena lies the famous Three Bays: Sakalava Bay, Pigeons Bay, and Dunes Bay. These secluded stretches of coastline are some of the clearest turquoise waters and most dramatic views in Africa. Along the way, you’ll pass rocky cliffs, deserted beaches, lagoons, and quaint fishing villages.
If beaches aren’t your thing, Antsiranana also offers Sugarloaf Mountain, a striking rounded peak visible from several viewpoints around the city. For hikers, the French Mountain Trail is a challenging but rewarding climb, though we didn’t have time to attempt it. I’ve heard the panoramic views from the top are worth the difficult trip.
Tsingy Rouge
The Red Tsingy is a natural wonder located in between Antsiranana and Ankarana National Park. Note, that this isn’t like the real Tsingy you will find in Ankarana or Tsingy de Bemahara Parks, but it mirrors those structures, which is why the park has been given the name, Tsingy Rouge. The Red Tsingy features towering stone pinnacles formed from erosion of red laterite soil over centuries. The vivid rust-red color and towering red structures make it feel like you’ve stepped onto Mars.
Walking through the park takes a little over an hour, and the trail winds through clusters of jagged formations. The midday sun here can be intense, and there’s virtually no shade except for one large treehouse structure at the center of the park. The treehouse is a great place to take a break, cool down, and admire the formations from a slightly elevated view before finishing your walk. Because of the intense heat, make sure to bring enough water, and if you can, fit it into a morning or evening in your itinerary.
Ambilobe
About 4-5 hours south of Antsiranana lies the town of Ambilobe. While the town itself doesn’t offer much, we stayed here for an overnight stop before visiting Ankarana National Park. Even though Ambilobe is still a 45-minute drive from the park entrance, it’s worth staying here because the hotels are significantly nicer, more modern, and better maintained than those right next to the park. In the northern heat, you’ll appreciate a hotel with air conditioning, a pool, and great facilities—especially after long days outdoors.
Ankarana National Park
This was the highlight of our time in Northern Madagascar. Ankarana National Park is one of only two places in the country where you can see the famous Tsingy formations—towering limestone structures that look like a forest of stone. Unlike Tsingy de Bemaraha in the west, which requires days of travel for the trip, Ankarana is much more accessible once you’re already in the north.
The park offers a mix of dramatic landscapes and wildlife encounters. There are several routes you can choose from, but we chose the one with the standout suspension bridge that would let us finish our trek by noon. The suspension bridge spans a gorge between jagged tsingy cliffs, and crossing it feels like an adventure movie moment. The views from the bridge are breathtaking, with a sharp drop beneath you and endless grey pinnacles stretching to the horizon.
Because the heat can be brutal, I recommend starting your hike early in the morning. Not only will you avoid the worst of the sun, but you’ll also have a better chance of spotting wildlife before the trails get busy. We encountered a harmless snake that our guide helped us catch and hold. We also spotted several chameleons, and, just outside the park, fed mangoes to a group of wild lemurs.
One of the best parts about exploring the north is how manageable the distances are. After a half-day hike in Ankarana, you can still make the 4.5-hour drive back to Antsiranana in time for a sunset swim at Ramena Beach or a final glimpse of Sugarloaf Mountain.
What I’d change
Honestly, there’s not much I’d change about my trip here. I managed to see my top priorities despite having limited time. That said, Northern Madagascar is home to some of the country’s most spectacular coastlines—many of them on nearby islands or the northern peninsula—which I didn’t get to explore.
In particular, I’d love to visit Nosy Be, an island popular for diving and honeymoon getaways. It’s so popular that it has the second-largest international airport in Madagascar, meaning you could even fly there directly if you plan to stick to the north. I’d also love to see Mar Esmeralda, which locals say has some of the most breathtaking waters in the country. On our trip, we met two girls who had originally planned a two-week tour of Madagascar but ended up spending their entire trip kitesurfing in Mar Esmeralda because they loved it so much. Next time, the north will definitely get more of my days.
…
Northern Madagascar might not have the baobabs, but it packs an incredible variety of landscapes, wildlife, and beaches into a relatively compact area. The distances between attractions are short relatively to those in other parts of the country, making it easy to plan an itinerary without losing full days to travel.
That said, “easy to navigate” doesn’t mean smooth—these are some of the bumpiest roads in the entire country. Expect long stretches of potholes and uneven dirt tracks. But if you can handle the journey, the rewards are more than worth it!
