Madagascar is one of the most unique and breathtaking destinations I’ve visited and I’m excited to start a thread of posts about my trip there. Magical as it is, Madagascar isn’t the kind of place you just show up and wing it (which I tend to do). It requires a fair bit of planning, logistical juggling, and managing expectations. I learned a lot during my trip, and I’ve put together a list of things I wish I knew before going. Hopefully, these tips help you have a smoother adventure to the Red Island.
1) Go With a Good Group – Preferably a Multiple of 4
You all know I’m a big advocate for solo travel—over 75% of my trips have been just me and my suitcase—but Madagascar is a different beast. The country is vast, with major attractions scattered across long distances. That means you’ll need a car (and a driver), which adds up quickly if you’re solo.
I recommend traveling in a group of four, or a multiple of four, because that’s the most that can fit comfortably in a standard car, making a car rental and fuel SUPER affordable. It also makes splitting hotel costs easier. We were a group of 8, and after splitting accommodation costs, I never paid more than $32 a night even for very nice villas. Group travel really is the hack here.
2) Plan Your Trip Knowing You Can’t Travel at Night
If you’re used to overnight trains or sleeping through nightdrives like I am—brace yourself. In Madagascar, traveling at night is a no-go. Some areas literally ban night driving due to safety concerns like banditry.
Roads between cities can take 12+ hours to cover, so your travel days will be long and you will have start early (think: in the car by 6 a.m.). It’s definitely not the destination for people who love to sleep in! Build your itinerary with this in mind, and if possible, sprinkle in breaks and scenic stops to make the drives more tolerable.
3) Pack for Different Weathers
I checked the forecast for Antananarivo and Antsiranana before leaving, saw mid-80s, and thought “perfect, tropical vibes.” Wrong.
In the highlands near Antsirabe, we hit highs in the 50s and I was grateful I had tossed in a jacket and some long sleeves. Meanwhile, Morondava was blazing in the 90s. Basically, Madagascan weather is all over the place especially if you’re road tripping. Pack layers and be ready for both heat and chill.
4) Exchange Rates Don’t Make Sense
The exchange rate in Madagascar is like a riddle. There’s an official rate online, but that’s rarely what you’ll get in real life.
Euros are used widely, but I found that asking for prices in Ariary almost always saved us money. For example, our driver up north quoted us one price in euros, and when we asked for the Ariary rate, it came out nearly 50% cheaper.
I’m used to vendors preferring hard currency, but it didn’t seem to be the case in Madagascar. My advice? Pay in Ariary when you can. It’s usually better than whatever euro price you’re quoted. Or use your card when possible—your bank’s rate is likely fairer than any local rate.
5) ATMs Are Surprisingly Reliable
I usually have to travel with a stack of cash that I can exchange for local currency as a plan B, in case I can’t find a working ATM. However, one of the few travel stressors I didn’t face in Madagascar: finding working ATMs. We found reliable machines in every major city, especially from big-name banks like Société Générale (my personal fave in the country). Like I said, the exchange rates on the ground are quite unfavorable, so withdrawing money from the ATM is your best bet. ATMs typically only dispense large bills, though, so stop by a grocery store or gas station to break them into smaller change.
6) Gas Stations Will Be Your Best Friends
Speaking of gas stations, shoutout to Jovena stations and their “Tonga Soa” stores! These convenience stores quickly became our pit stops of choice.
They were always stocked with snacks, essentials we forgot, and ready-made meals that were way better than those at random roadside restaurants. Not all Jovenas are equal—the ones in the capital and major towns are best—but they were lifesavers on long travel days.
7) The Scruffiest Restaurants Are Actually The Worst Bang for Your Buck
We found the cheapest and best-value meals at mid-tier restaurants. Think nice ambiance, good service, tasty food, and meals under $11 for appetizers, a main and dessert.
Surprisingly, the sketchy-looking roadside huts near tourist areas were often more expensive than proper sit-down places in the cities—and with less food! When you’re at a national park in the middle of nowhere you might be forced to go to one of these. but don’t assume the scruffiest place will be cheap. When in doubt, aim for a mid-range restaurant where you’re more likely to get value for money and likely even pay with a card.
8) Be Wary of Google Translate
I took one semester of Malagasy in college and knew a few basic words, but definitely not enough to hold a proper conversation in Madagascar. Naturally, we tried to use Google Translate to bridge the gap—especially when reading signs or chatting with locals—but I quickly learned not to take its translations as gospel.
Case in point: we once tried translating the Malagasy warning on a cigarette pack, and Google confidently told us it said, “Cigarettes are awesome for breastfeeding.” (See photo for proof!) Of course, that was completely wrong. Our driver later explained that the actual message was “Cigarettes cause breast cancer.” Huge difference.
As funny as that moment was, it’s a good reminder to be cautious with Google Translate, especially for Malagasy. You’re usually better off using the French translation option or asking a local who understands English to help you out.
so there you have it…
Madagascar is an absolutely incredible country, but it definitely rewards travelers who come prepared. From road logistics to unpredictable weather and quirky exchange rates, these tips should help you feel a little more ready to take on the adventure.
And don’t worry, I’ve got more tips coming in Part 2, so stay tuned 🙂
